An ending..
Bonjour! Just on the train in Marseille (the station is like an airport) ready to begin our journey home. Just had time this morning to wander down to the docks and take some photos. Thanks for reading, à bientôt!
Étape 11: Avignon to Marseille (100km) – Fin
A little down, last night we accepted the fact that without a new tyre it would not be safe for me to ride to Marseille (with the prospect of being stranded miles from anywhere with limited water in the searing heat). Our only hope was a bike shop in Avignon.
(Above: The shredded tyre rim from extremely hot and rough conditions, and over 1,100km of wear)
Fortunately we found just about the only bike shop open in Avignon, Ultimebike, where I was able to source a new 25mm tyre and get back on the road for the final leg of this tour.
We had to make up lost time, especially after trying unsuccessfully for some time to make our way out of Avignon, but we were soon flying along down quiet D roads through sleepy French villages once more.
We stopped at defacto halfway point Salon-de-Provence for a bite to eat, and a few gallons of water from a local boulangerie there. At that point it sunk in that just 50km remained, so no matter the painful knees and muscles, the heat, the drying wind – nothing mattered now except getting to Marseille.
A few climbs remained, then we could feel the sea air as a pronounced sea breeze set in around 15:00. A few very scary roundabouts to negotiate with the A7/A51 with us almost drifting onto the Autoroute, without paying! As always French drivers were curteous and gave us plenty of room, unlike in the UK where you’d be hooted just for seemingly existing! Finally though after all this we had arrived at the Mediterranean coast in Marseille and we had done it, exhausted but elated.
Tomorrow its a long (but fast across France) train journey back to the UK. Time to unwind, relax and recover.
Thanks for reading, and for supporting us. I hope to post a round-up tomorrow!
Étape 10: Valence to Avignon (150km)
The longest ride of the tour was mostly a smooth and fast ride down along the Rhône, though there was some drama in the final few km!
I forgot to mention that last night just as we arrived in Valence two French cyclists came over to us looking for help. Despite the language barrier we were able to supply the required allan key which helped them fix their saddle and smooth over diplomatic relations between France and the UK (especially post-Brexit!)
It was much easier to escape Valence this morning, with the French celebrating Ascension this meant that the roads were mostly quiet. It was another hot one though with temperatures pushing 30C by the afternoon. A keen breeze however kept it bearable, especially as (at around 15 gusting 25 to 30) it was a lovely tailwind.
The route crisscrossed the Rhône with occasionally some very vulnerable looking bridges ( see above ) that required much care and attention to cross safely. We made good progress however and found a much needed oasis within the desert by means of a wonderful outdoor café in Bourg-Saint-Andéol, where we able to refresh ourselves.
Out south towards Orange we saw bamboo plantations and Lavender fields, and then the route came to an abrupt end where a reservoir had been created! Some quick re-routing was required but eventually we picked up on the fast D roads again, taking us past Mark’s favourite Châuteauneuf-du-Pape, and into Avignon where we are this very warm evening.
In a final moment of drama my back tyre had a blowout just a few km before reaching Avignon (probably the heat and stressful 1100km cycle), fortunately I was not going fast and we were able to temporarily fix it so I could bike into Avignon. However this does mean we need to find a bike shop tomorrow in order to find a more permanent fix and procede to our final destination Marseille!
Bourg St. Andéol
Just taken a break partway to Avignon on the banks of the Rhône to recharge with a bit of pizza. Temperature is around 29 degrees so its beer o’clock.
Étape 9: Lyon to Valence (130km)
Bonsoir. There is palpable joy in France tonight as Frenchman Pierre Rolland finally secures a stage win in the ongoing 100th Giro D’Italia (Étape 17- 219km). Meanwhile just across the Alps it was a very long and hot day in the saddle as we continued to push south. I felt a lot better this morning after going for a swim yesterday evening in order to help sooth various aching muscles – I only did about 150m but it was enough to make a difference, and the outdoor pool was too much to resist! Both of us and our bikes starting to look tired after close to 1,000km being clocked-up.
Today was Part 1 of a 3-part section of the tour that routes south through the Rhône-Alps and down into Marseille. It got off to a slow start with heavy traffic and plenty of stop/starting at red lights as we meandered our way out of Lyon and its suburbs, which stretch out south along the snaking river.
We finally made it out shortly before midday, however by then it was already 25C and we therefore sought shelter with a stop for lunch, and some much needed shade in Givors. Back on the road we made use of a fast (and moderately busy) D road to get back some time, and then crossed to a considerably quieter voie verte after Vienne, which at times was quite fast (30 km/h).
The scenery at this point became incredibly striking & beautiful, with the steep sides of the Rhône valley covered on the southwest facing side by yet more vineyards, and the other by densely packed woodland. It also became more and more obvious that we were approaching the Mediterranean with the soil becoming increasingly dry, and a widening variety of plants and fruits growing by the roadside.
As we approached Valence, weary in the still hot evening sun, we spotted the Alps come dramatically into view!
Tonight’s track needs no introduction (but I’m going to give it one anyway). Loosely translated as fast fashion – Depeche Mode released “Enjoy The Silence” which I dedicate to every Pete Crookes free shift at Wattisham! Also I don’t think Ian Jameson has forgiven me for refusing to play it at the 80s night (No6 in February 1990!)
Étape 8: Cluny to Lyon (90km)
Another beautiful day in the Burgandy region of France, with crystal clear blue skies from dawn until dusk. We left soon after 9am when it was already feeling warm and quite humid, and we barely had time to digest our breakfast before tackling some steep climbs between Cluny and Mâcon upwards of 12%.
The route was quite steep and twisting, before burying under the hills through a 2km tunnel (the Tunnel du Bois Clair) that required our bike lights for the first time on the route. The tunnel is closed during the winter to protect a colony of bats that live there, and remains cool and quite damp ( and dark ! ) even in the summer months, which provided some welcome relief to the heat!
Definitely started to feel my knees in pain this morning after 7 days of continuous cycling, and even struggled to walk the stairs last night – but once on the open road the kilometers seemed to fly by, especially once we had passed Mâcon and were following fast paced winding roads that followed the river Saône down to Lyon.
After 90 km we have arrived in Lyon where it was once again a very warm afternoon with the temperature peaking at 26C. The place we are staying is close to the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône, and marks the start of the final leg of the tour into the Rhône-Alps region, which contains in its easternmost part the start of the Alps and Mont Blanc! If we end up there we’ve made a serious wrong turn.. though Mark has talked about Mt. Ventoux (usually after half a bottle of red).
So far then we’ve covered approximately 840km, achieving this in just over 43 hours at an average speed of 19.4km/h. Forwards ever, backwards never as they say- but an exceptionally tough 3 days lie ahead of us between Lyon and the finish on the Mediterranean on Friday afternoon!
Thanks to everyone who has been sending messages of support, it is helping to inspire us on to the finish in spite of all the niggles and pains, not to mention the temptation to lie-in and enjoy France at a slower pace.
Étape 7: Dijon to Cluny (96km)
We both felt a lot better after a lovely evening and stay at Graham and Karen’s. It was great to sit out under the stars wining and dining by candlelight, with the gentle chirping of crickets in the background and it did not feel at all cold!
In the morning we were treated to a fantastic breakfast, I got my first homemade porridge of the journey (thanks Karen!), and there was quite a spread including croissants (without butter accompaniment – obviously), pain au chocolat, fresh toast, Karen’s homemade apricot jam, and scrambled eggs to order for Mark.
Feeling refreshed, we headed off on the quiet and mostly flat stage that has taken us to the beautiful small town of Cluny. Situated on the river Grosne, there has been a settlement here for over 1100 years, though its prestigious abbey (built in 910 and belived to be one of the grandest in Europe at the time) was mostly destroyed during the French revolution in the 1790s.
Most of the second half of the route was on a very good Voie Verte (green way – see above photo) from Chalon-sur-Saône, which was well shaded, just as well after a completely cloudless sky and temperatures up to 26 degrees C!
On route we also heard an impromptu gig with someone practicing drumming and some guitar work in the middle of nowhere. Surreal but much more impressive than Matt Woods on the pan pipes.
Tonight’s track is by one of my favourite French groups Phoenix and a song they wrote about Paris, titled “1901”.
Étape 6: Chaumont to Dijon (137 km)
Today was the longest route of the tour, a fairly gruelling up and down ride of 135km starting in Chaumont, entering the Burgundy region, before sweeping down into Dijon, and then sauntering along acres and acres of vineyards on our way towards our much anticipated resting place for tonight with Mark’s brother Graham.
It couldn’t have been a more perfect day with excellent roads, perfect weather ( a 10 kph headwind ), amazing scenery and light to no traffic, which meant we were able to make very good time. This despite Mark picking up the first 2 punctures of the tour in the morning – but even this could not bring us down. It looks as if a sharp stone had wedged its way into his rear tyre. Anyway that was soon sorted..
After arriving in Crécey-sur-Tille, there was the steepest gradient so far of approximately 11% over about a kilometre or so, which took some effort. However equally there were steep declines which allowed us to approach 60 km/h, with cars struggling to overtake the bikes!
When we arrived at Graham and Karen’s we were treated to a refreshing cold beer, and then an evening of wonderful food and drink (bbq’d Côte de bœuf!) under the beautifully warm setting sun in the garden, joined by their daughter Louise and her partner Jeremy ( who both live near Dijon also).
Thank you to Graham and Karen for putting up (with us!) food/drink and accomodation for tonight, and for a much-needed freshening up of our cycling gear/travel clothes! Bon nuit!
Woahhh.. we’re halfway there! (ish)
Great ride this morning, really making some good progress in spite of the first two punctures of the tour on Mark’s Cannondale. Just stopping off for a breather in Cussey-les-Forges. 600km to go…
wheretheecclefechanisdave 